----- Original Message -----
From: Ray
To: phaedrus@hungrybrowser.com
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 8:42 PM
Subject: Portugal Grapes
Checking the radar this evening, I see that the tumult of weather
(I even saw hail for the first time in about two decades) was passing
the Maine coast about the same time. But that's not the point here.
I was afterwards browsing material about the novels of Thomas Love Peacock,
and in "Headlong Hall" (1837) found:
https://www.thomaslovepeacock.net/Headlong.html#04.04a
A very mixed list of supplies and provisions for a winter house party,
ending with "jars of Portugal grapes."
A little (very little) research did not clear up my puzzlement. I found
in an 1844 Cookbook:
https://www.gutenberg.org/files/29232/29232-h/29232-h.htm#A_CATALOGUE_OF_THINGS_IN_SEASON
A mention of "Portugal grapes," which seem to be joined to fresh winter fruits
such as certain apples and pears.
But "jars" of grapes seems a bit odd. I was wondering if a) these were actually
fresh grapes, somehow at that era shipped in jars, or b) grapes preserved in some
way, like pickles.
I'd think a fresh grape would have to be pretty sturdy to get from Portugal
to England in goodish shape, and a "jar" seems a peculiar way to ship them;
certainly England was not growing grapes in the winter. Unless "Portugal grapes"
was a generic term for some kind of long-lasting grape that could be grown in
England and kept until winter, the way the mentioned kinds of apples and pears could.
Any enlightenment?
Ray
Hello Ray,
Good to hear from you. How's the Long Island weather?
I think that I have managed to put together the answer from multiple bits and pieces
that I found on the web.
"Portugal Grapes" appear to be a variety of white grape grown in Portugal and
popular in Britain in the 19th century. Due to their hard pulp and thick skin,
they are particularly long-keeping grapes. They were packed in barrels with sawdust
or bran or cork dust for shipping. After reaching Europe and Britain, they were
repacked in jars for retail sale in shops.
I don't imagine that they were as tasty as the fresh grapes in our supermarkets
today, but they were all that was available in the winter in Britain. Here are
my references:
"fresh grapes (exactly like the 'Portugal Grapes' of the London shops),"
The Examiner By Leigh Hunt, Albany William Fonblanque, John Forster (1825): "PORTUGAL GRAPES, of the first quality, in the highest perfection, in Jars at 11. Is. per Jar."
"The Fruit Manual by Robert Hogg : "White Lisbon (White Hamburgh; White Portugal; White Raisin).- Bunches large and loose. Berries oval. Skin greenish-white. Flesh firm and crackling, not very juicy, but with a sweet and refreshing flavour.
It is this grape which is so largely imported from Portugal during the autumn and winter months, and sold in the fruiterers' and grocers' shops under the name of Portugal Grapes."
The New American Orchardist, Volume 2 By William Kenrick
"...is the same that is annually imported into that country from Portugal, to the value of 10,000, and sold in the shops for Portugal grapes. We may perhaps ascribe its long keeping to its hard pulp and thick skin..."
Vines and vine culture by Archibald F. (Archibald Farquharson) Barron.
"White Chasselas and White Lisbon Grapes, as sold by grocers, are
termed dry fruit, and are not included as Grapes proper ; these are
received packed loosely in large casks or barrels, which are then filled
with bran or cork dust. In this way they arrive in wonderfully
fresh condition. When unpacked the bran has to be brushed off
before they can be sold or used. "
Phaed
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Recipes:
The Old Foodie
Bipster
Malt Shake Cake
1 c. butter, softened
1 c. cool water
1 c. sugar
2 c. chocolate malt powder
2 c. flour
3 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
4 eggs
2 tsp. vanilla
1/2 c. chopped nuts
Maraschino cherries
Combine all ingredients except 1/2 cup malt powder, nuts and cherries. Blend 30 seconds
then beat 2 minutes at medium speed. Grease and flour 2 round cake pans. Bake at 375
degrees for 30-35 minutes. Remove from pans and cool then frost with Cream Malt Filling.
Refrigerate unused portion.
Creamy Malt Filling:
2 c. heavy cream
1/2 c. malt powder
1/4 c. cocoa
2 tbsp. sugar
Whip together until stiff. Frost between layers and outside of cake. Decorate with
nuts and cherries.
------------------------------------------------------
chocolate malt cake
1/2 c. Crisco, not liquid
2 sticks butter
3 c. sugar
3 c. flour
4 tbsp. cocoa
5 eggs
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 c. milk
1 tsp. vanilla
Blend shortening with butter. Add cocoa to sugar and cream together with shortening.
Add eggs separately and blend well after each. Mix baking powder with flour and
milk alternately at a low speed. Add vanilla. Butter and dust with granulated sugar
one 10 inch tube pan. Bake at 325 degrees for about 1 1/2 hours. Let stand in pan
for 10 minutes before turning out to cool.
-------------------------------------------------------
Malted Milk Cake
1/2 c. shortening
1 1/3 c. sugar
2 eggs
2 c. flour
1 tsp. salt
1 c. buttermilk
1/2 c. cocoa
1/3 c. water
1 tsp. vanilla
1 tbsp. vinegar
1 tsp. soda
Cream shortening and sugar. Add eggs. Add and alternate flour, salt and buttermilk.
Add melted cocoa and water. Add vanilla, vinegar and soda. Bake at 350 degrees for
30 minutes.
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Straub's Chicken Salad
"Straub's chicken salad is a traditional St. Louis favorite, made with poached chicken,
a creamy mayonnaise and lots of pepper;"
Evans-EatLaughLove
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Southern Food.About.com: Shrimp Cole Slaw
Smoky Shrimp Slaw
Red Lobster Shrimp Slaw
Shrimp Slaw
Asian Shrimp Slaw
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